Iron passes and silent lakes
Five days circling the border between the Val d'Aran and the French Ariège, through some of the wildest terrain in the central Pyrenees. The loop starts at the Amics de Montgarri refuge on the Spanish side and heads north into France, sleeping each night in a different refuge or gîte: Estagnous at 2,246 metres beneath the mythical Mont Valier, the Maison du Valier in its granite amphitheatre, the Gîte d'Eylie in a hidden valley on the GR10, and the Refuge de l'Étang d'Araing at the edge of the high country — before crossing back into Spain over high plateaus that can still hold snow in early season. The path follows old routes of shepherds, miners and smugglers, crossing five passes above 2,400 metres, with mining galleries still cut into the rock at 2,500 m near the Port d'Urets.
Lakes punctuate every stage and the refuges serve half-board in their dorms, so you carry little. Strong walkers add the summit detours — Crabère, Mont Valier, Barlonguère, Maubermé — while others keep to the cols; the loop is the same, and how high you climb along the way is yours to decide.
